Heydalur í Mjóafirði

Heydalur takes some getting to — roughly 130 km from Ísafjörður, then 12 km in off the main road, sitting by the Heydalsá River below the hotel. That distance is the point: the valley is quiet, sheltered, and green, with gorges and waterfalls further in. The water is the draw here. There's a small indoor pool built inside a greenhouse, an outdoor hot tub, and a natural geothermal pool across the river. Add a restaurant using local ingredients, kayak and horse rental, and a resident talking parrot the site is quite proud of. Pitches are grassy and tree-sheltered, with toilets, showers, and hot water, plus electricity for larger vehicles. Spring and summer bring heavy birdlife. The season runs June to the start of October.

Wild camping rules have tightened. Use designated campsites to stay on the right side of the law.