Hangandifoss

The fall comes off the rim of Múlagljúfur, the mossy canyon that opens above the Fagurhólsmýri plain between Skaftafell and Jökulsárlón. There is no marked path to it, and no official turnaround: the eleven recorded walks we hold up the canyon run anywhere from 1.8 km to 6.6 km, so how far in you get is a decision you make on the day.

The sound of falling water fills the air. Mist catches the light. This is Iceland at its most elemental.

Come early morning or late evening to avoid crowds. The light's better for photos anyway. Bring layers - waterfall spray plus Icelandic wind equals cold.